
P ^03 




i 



D 403 /^ ; 

P4 ^ f^^ 

3py 1 — ~ 



OF 



FOREST TREES 



HAVING COMMERCIAL VALUE 



AND 



ADAPTED TO PENNSYLVANIA. 



By GEORGE H. WIRT, Forester. 



PUBLISHED BY THE 



PENNSYLVANIA DEPARTMENT OF FORESTRY. 




ARGIVVES. 



WM. STANLEY RAY, 

STATE PRINTER OF PENNSYLVANIA. 
1902. 



F»I^OF»JVO.A.1"IOINt 



OF 



FOREST TREES 



HAVING COMMERCIAL VALUE 



ADAPTED TO PENNSYLVANIA. 



By GEORGE H. WIRT, Forester. 



PUBLISHED BY THE 



PENNSYLVANIA DEPARTMENT OF FORESTRY. 




WM. STANLEY RAY, 

STATE PRINTER OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

1902. 



-SX. 




(2> 









Wy>r. 



^"S 



Department of Forestry, 
Harrisbiirg, Pa., February 2, 1902. 

The frequent demands made upon this office for information as 
to the best methods of propagating forest trees induced me to re- 
ciuest Mr. Wirt, our State Forester, to prepare this bulletin upon 
the subject. I believe it will be timely and useful. 

J. T. ROTHROCK, 
Commissioner of Forestry. 



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(4) 



LKTTKR OF TRANSMITTAL. 



To Hon. J. T. Rotlirock, Commissioner of Forestry: 

Dear Sir: I have tlie honor to submit herewith the following notes 
on the "Propagation of Forest Trees Adapted to Pennsylvania." 

Recognizing the needs of our farmers, I have endeavored to pre- 
sent in a brief and clear way such facts and methods as will bring 
reasonable success to the inexperienced planter, without making 
necessary any large expenditure of money. The nurseryman or the 
forester may find nothing new and may even take exception to many 
statements. 

The botanical names of the trees and their order, for the greater 
part, is in accordance with Gray's "Manual of Botany," sixth edi- 
tion. In addition I have added those given by Britton and Brown 
in their "Flora of North America and Canada," when differing from 
the nomenclature of Gray. 

Very respectfully, 

GEORGE H. WIRT, 

Forester. 

Harrisburg, Pa., February 1, 1902. 



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THE FORKST NURSKRY. 



Forestry work does not consist entirely of raising trees from st ed 
and of planting them, altliougli that is a very important part of it. 
Nor is all planting of trees forestry work. Forestry is a business and 
must be conducted on a financial basis. Planting individual trees 
is done mostly from an aestlietic standpoint and at a comparatively 
high expense. Planting for forestry purposes, under existing con- 
ditions, must be reduced to the least possible cost, but it must be 
understood that more may be lost in this operation from lack of 
care and attention to the young plants than by trying to save time 
and money along some other line of work. The methods of raising 
trees are as varied and as numerous as the trees themselves, the 
people who plant them and the localities in which they are planted. 
In other words, the conditions under which each planter has to work 
are so different that there can be no exact method laid down that will 
be applicable for all trees and all places. But there are certain laws 
of plant life in general, and facts in regard to particular trees that, 
being reinforced by observation of nature and by common sense, will 
undoubtedly lead to a measurable degree of success. For what fol- 
lows there is no claim of originality. It is merely a sifted collection 
of notes taken from the most reliable sources at hand and from 
the observation of successful nursery work. 

Nursery. 

Location. — If many plants are to be raised and the planting is to 
extend over a number of years, a permanent nursery must be pre- 
pared. Its proximity to the house of the person in charge will afford 
the advantage of easy and quick accessibility. Time can be saved 
in going to and from it. A frequent inspection of its condition and 
requirements is more likely to occur, and work may be done at odd 
times. On the other hand, if the planting is to be done within one 
or two years the nursery might best be placed near the prospective 
plantation in order to save time in removing the young plants, and 
to decrease the danger of loss resulting from exposure of the roots to 
sun and wind. Less preparation is needed, perhaps, in this case, and 
less care, in some respects, but in either case the following hints are 
applicable. 

( ) 



8 

Aspect. — The land sliould have a very g-radual slope, and face to- 
wards the northeast to give the best results. Good drainage will 
be obtained; the direct rays of the sun during the growing season 
are avoided and in spring there is more gradual thaw, a condition 
that is very desirable, for it is the sudden changes that affect plants 
most.. Other slopes may be used of course, but protection from 
wind and from the sun must be provided for. As watering will often 
be necessary, a stream or a spring should be close at hand. 

Soil. — The soil should be, preferably, a sandy loam of moderate 
moisture — neither too wet nor too dry. Heavy soil should be avoid- 
ed. Whatever land is used, ought to be worked up thoroughly, to a 
depth of at least 1| feet, in the fall and again in the spring. More 
especially should this be done on new land or on land that has not 
been worked for a long time. The top soil should be well and evenly 
fertilized. The more thoroughly the working is done the more 
oxygen for plant life there will be in the soil. The moisture will be 
better maintained. If the fertilizing is properly done, instead of 
raising seedlings with long, straggling roots, w^hich cause more or 
less difficulty in transplanting, there will be produced strong plants 
with a compact system of root fibres, which is a better result for 
many reasons. 

Beds. — The size of the nursery must be left entirely to the planter 
himself, but it may be a safe estimate to allow^ sixteen square feet of 
bed for every three hundred broad-leaved seedlings and for every six 
hundred conifers expected from a medium thickness of broadcast 
sowing. 

If transplanting is to be done, fifteen ix> thirty square feet may be 
allowed for every one hundred conifers and thirty to sixty square 
feet for every one hundred broad-leaved seedlings. To prepare the beds 
stake out the paths or walks at right angles' to each other. • Shovel 
about six inches of soil from these and throw it on top of w^hat will 
be the beds. These may be kept in better shape, then, if boards are 
placed around the sides, otherwise after each rain more or less soil 
is washed into the walks, often exposing the roots, or washing out 
entirely the plants along the edges. Long beds should be about four 
feet across so as to be worked easily from each side. Of course these 
are a saving in ground-space, but if there is much danger of damage 
from mice it is best to have small beds about five feet square. Or a 
ditch with perpendicular w^alls around the entire nursery will make 
it mouse-proof. For taprooted species of trees, such as oak, walnut, 
hickory, ash, etc., special beds might be made, so as to prevent the 
iorming of long taproots, by placing on about a level with the walks 
a layer of boards or a very close layer of stones under the beds. 

Moisture. — Moisture is one of the most necessary conditions of 
plant life, consequently the needs of the nursery in this direction 



must be carefully attended to. Frequent working of the soil and 
weeding will make a fiue, loose cover for the beds, preventing evapo- 
ration to a very great degree. If the soil becomes too dry, watering 
must be done. Very good results are obtained if the water is allowed 
to flow through the walks, and to reach the soil in the beds by capil- 
larity. Another good method is to make small irrigation trenches 
on the beds, fill them and allow the water to soak into the ground. 
Sprinkling is likel}' to form a crust which will increase evaporation. 
After a rain the beds may be too moist. If so, proper conditions can 
be made by sprinkling some dry sand over the ground. Young seed- 
lings are very likely, too, to have earth spattered over their stems. 
Especially is this so with conifers and they should be freed of this as 
soon as possible by running a stick gently over them. 

Weeding. — The nursery beds should be kept clean of w^eeds at all 
times. If the seedlings have been planted in row's, or in the case of 
transplants, weeds may be kept out by small billets of wood or by a 
layer of moss, or of leaves placed between the rows. Weeding 
should not be done after the first of September at the latest. 

Shade. — During the first season's growth, the young plants will be 
very sensitive and they should be given some protection from the 
sun. This can be done by making lath frames which will let through 
about half the sunlight, and by placing them from two to six feet 
above the beds. Or a frame may be made on which branches can be 
laid. Some prefer simply sticking conifer branches into the beds in 
such a way that they form a slight cover. Lath frames are, perhaps, 
the most convenient, for the shade ought to be removed on cloudy 
days and during gentle showers. These covers, as well as the bil- 
lets to keep down weeds, will help to preserve the moisture in the 
beds. 



Seeds. 

Choice of Species. — In determining the species to be raised, it is 
well to observe what trees are growing in the locality, not only with- 
in wooded districts but also along fences and in fields. They will 
give an idea of the quality of the soil and of what may be expected in 
the future, although this is not always the case, for other better spe- 
cies ma}" have been forced out by some cause. Find out when these 
trees will have a good crop of seeds and then have everything ready 
for work when it comes. Not all trees bear seeds every year, as in the 
case of some oaks and conifers the period varies from two to five 
years, or even longer. Nor do all seed years produce a full crop of 
good seeds, as in the case of the tulip-tree. Then some seeds ripen in 
^^arly summer, however, those of most trees do not ripen till fall, or 



10 

even winter. From among these trees in the neighborhood, if they 
are the proper species, select the healthiest ones and gather their 
seeds as soon as ripe. 

Time of Sowing. — Seeds of the poplars, soft maple, white elm, 
paper and river birch, and others maturing in summer should be 
sown at once. They lose their power of germination in a short time. 
Seeds of oaks, hickories, walnuts, conifers, and others which mature 
in fall may be sown at once. The freezing and thawing of winter 
will be beneficial to them, but the destruction by squirrels, mice, and 
birds that is likel}' to occur is sufficient reason for not planting until 
spring, if the seeds can be preserved properly. They should not be 
allowed to dry out before planting nor should they be exposed con- 
stantly to much moisture if they are to be kept for any length of 
time. 

Thickness of Sowing. — By ruaking tests, either by cutting seeds or 
by placing them between wet flannels in a warm room, so as to pro- 
duce germination, or by some other method, the percentage of good 
seed is determined and from this the thickness of the sowing. It is 
very easy to sow too thick, and then the seedlings will be weak, but 
it is cheaper to thin out, and perhaps set the young plants in other 
ground, than to have to fill up blanks. 

Depth of Sowing. — The difficulty, in too many cases, has been that 
instead of the seeds being planted, they are buried. As a general 
rule, for depth of cover, the diameter of the seed is sufficient, but if 
the ground is left very loose, or if there is danger from frost late in 
spring, a heavier covering should be given. It is well, after sowing, 
to roll the beds or to press the ground with a spade or a board. In 
fall sowing cover the beds with a layer of leaves. It will prevent the 
ground from heaving during the time of frost and in the spring will 
prevent the heavy rains from washing out the seeds. This may be 
done to advantage, too, after spring sowing. In both cases a careful 
watch must be kept and as soon as the seedlings appear the leaves 
should be raked off. Branches might then be spread thinly over 
them to keep the birds away, but these should not be left on too long 
so as to in any way interfere with the growth. Small seeds may be 
coated with red lead as a protection against birds. 

Manner of Sowing.— As a. usual thing the smaller seeds are sown 
broadcast in the nursery, especially those of the conifers, the ash, the 
birch, etc. The larger seeds, as those of the oaks, hickories, walnuts, 
etc., are usually sown in furrows, or rows, from six to twelve inches 
apart, on the nursery beds. The latter are often sown in rows where 
the plants will remain permanently. This may be advisable with 
with taprooted species. Broadcast sowing over a plantation is very 
expensive and is very seldom done. 



11 



Transplan'ting. 

Age of Plants. — Most plants after they have remained in the seed 
beds for one season, may be set out where they are to stand finally, 
especially broad-leaved ones. The spruces and firs grow very slowly 
during the first four or five years and may best be left two years in 
the seed bed, then transplanted to other nursery beds and allowed to 
remain there two or three years. Small and weak seedlings of other 
species should be treated in the same way. Frequent transplanting 
is recommended for all species, when especially large and strong 
plants are needed. In all cases before setting out finally, whether 
on good or poor land, the object should be to grow and to use only 
the strongest and best plants. They will be able to resist enemies 
and hardships and to recover from injuries much better than weak 
ones. 

Time. — Transplanting can be done either in fall or in spring. If 
done in fall, it should be after the growth has ripened or ceased. 
During winter the dirt will have a chance to settle about the roots, 
and by spring the loss of root fibre will be partly made up. On the 
other hand, frost may lift the plants out of the ground or storms may 
loosen them. Then, too, they will be exposed to damage from 
animals at a time when food is scarce. In spring the work should be 
done as early as possible, at least before the new growth begins. 
Spring is preferable for conifers. 

Distance. — The distance at which plants should be placed finally 
depends upon the species, the age and the object in view. If fire- 
wood is the only object then perhaps more wood will be formed per 
tree by giving as much room and light as possible to the tops. Even 
in this case it is a question whether close planting is not better finan- 
cially, if small wood can be used or sold at all. Where it is the pur- 
pose to get the soil covered quickly, to raise straight stems clean 
from branches, either for poles or posts, or later for timber, close 
planting must be done. For plantations of considerable size, to 
plant at regular distances and to do it in a systematic way is at all 
times cheapest. Cultivation may be done more quickly and easily. 
Blanks may be easily found and filled, and later management is 
facilitated. Of course mere filling of gaps in existing forests can 
be done only in a very irregular method. 

Roots. — There are numerous methods of planting, but, in all, the 
most important thing is to take care of the roots. Perhaps more 
failures could be traced to lack of care of them than to any other 
cause. They are very sensitive to sun and wind and should never 
be exposed long enough to become dried out. When the plants are 
removed from the nursery they should be taken from the beds as care- 



12 

fully as possible so that very few roots be broken. Wrap the roots 
in wet burlap or cover them with moist moss, or place them in thin 
mud. The plants may then be carried safely to 'the place of plant- 
ing. If it is not done at once they should be "heeled in." In plant- 
ing do not cramp the roots in any way and see that the growing ends 
are down, and not up. Place fine soil among the roots and pack it 
thoroughly. If sod has been taken out, turn it upside down on the 
ground close to the tree. Young plants are sensitive to being 
planted too deep and so should be no deeper than they were in the 
nursery. Of course with larger plants, when a great deal of dirt has 
been loosened, allowance must be made for some settling, but this 
will not be necessary if packing is well done. When larger roots 
have been broken or bruised they should be cut off smooth with a 
sharp knife. Planting can not be done too carefully. 

Methods.— In loose and in sandy soil small plants may be set out 
quickly with the "dibble." This is simply a wooden peg or some 
iron instrument which will make a hole large enough to have the 
roots dropped into it. The hole should be made deeper than the 
roots are long. Place the plant in the hole as far as convenient and 
then raise it to the proper planting depth. In this way the roots will 
be in a natural position and not turned up, or to one side. The hole 
is closed by running the dibble into the ground near the hole and 
forcing the soil against the roots. This method may be used to good 
advantage within a forest to fill up blanks if the soil is deep enough. 
The most common method, and that applicable under more condi- 
tions than any other, is planting in holes that have had to be dug in 
some manner, as with a spade or hoe. It is necessary for large 
plants. It is the best method for small plants in heavy soils and 
in stony places. In fact it may be used anywhere but in the very wet 
soils. It is well to have the holes dug in fall and allowed to lie open 
during the winter for spring planting. Humus, rich ground or 
manure may be used in planting, and if so, should be well placed 
among the roots, the poorer soil being placed on top. Each plant 
should be made firm. 

On hillsides where a plow can be used terraces may be formed by 
laying rows of stones along the hill side, or if more time can be taken, 
by putting in stakes and placing small branches on the uphill side. 
Run a furrow above this in .lutumn and during winter the ground will 
be more or less broken up, facilitating spring planting a great deal. 
Where a plow can not be used on a slope the only resource is to dig 
holes just wherever possible and put in strong plants. 

In wet soils, swamps or marshes, mound planting may best be used. 
This is very similar to hole planting, except that the plant is put 
into the ground thrown out of the hole instead of placing it in the 
hole itself as in the other cases. If sod has been lifted, split it and 



13 

place the plant in the crevice. Here, too, the gTOimd must be thor- 
oughly packed around the roots of the plant. When balls of dirt are 
taken out with the j^lauts, holes must be dug somewhat larger than 
the size of the ball on the plant. When this is done the plants may 
be moved at an^^ time of year and to any jjlace. If the plants are 
crooked or branchy after planting, cut them off about an inch and a 
half above ground. 

A few trees, such as willoAvs and poplars, may be propagated by 
cuttings. It is recommended that the cuttings be gathered in fall 
from last year's shoots and buried during winter. They should be 
planted in spring while the ground is still moist. They will do well 
if not gathered till spring, but before the new growth begins, and 
planted at once. When planting leave one good bud above ground. 
The others may be rubbed off. Layers or root suckers may be used 
in a few instances but as a general rule, willows and poplars being 
an exception, it is better to raise trees from seed. 



CUCUMBER TREE, MOUNTAIN MAGNOLIA. 
Magnolia acuminata, L. 

This tree is nowhere common in Bennsylvania. It is, however, a 
tree that is worthy of being cultivated because of the peculiar fitness 
of its wood for pump stocks, watering troughs, etc. 

The fruit is a cylindrical mass resembling the cucumber, whence the 
tree's name. This becomes red in autumn and it is then time to watch 
for seeds, in order that they may be gathered as soon as ripe. About 
the last of September, or the first of October, when fully mature, 
scarlet seeds may be seen suspended from the fruit by delicate white 
threads. Owing to an oil in the pulp that encloses each seed they 
become rancid and lose their power of germination as soon as the pulp 
decays. They should be placed at once in water of 70 degrees to 80 
degrees Fahrenheit and macerated for about a week, when the seeds 
can be thoroughly washed. These should then be fixed in a box in 
alternate layers of sand and seeds, and kept in a cellar where they 
will not freeze. As soon as the ground is warm in spring, about the 
middle of May, they may be sown in furrows from six to eight inches 
apart, on well prepared seed beds and covered lightly. If any fer- 
tilizing is done a small quantity of wood ashes or of bone dust is 
best. It is said that manure should not be used. The seedlings, 
after remaining in the seed beds for two years, should be ready for 
being set out where they are to remain. If intended for lawn plant- 
ing they may be transplanted every two or three years until wanted. 



14 

The tree is found naturally in valleys or coves of mountainous 
regions, and along rocky streams, prefering deep, rich soil. To do 
well they must be planted in conditions as near as possible to those 
under which thej^ do best naturally. Plant in rows from two to five 
feet apart and from eighteen to twenty-four inches in the row. Close 
planting will prevent early branching. 



SWEET BAY, SWAMP SASSAFRAS, BEAVER TREE. 

Magnolia glauca, L. 

Magnolia Virginiana, L. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 48. 

The tree never reaches a very great size in this State and is of very 
little importance except as an ornamental tree. Its flowers appear- 
ing in June and continuing for several weeks are very beautiful and 
fragrant. It iH'efers moist or swampy soils in a sheltered position. 
I'ropagation from seed is the same as that for the cucumber tree, but 
it may be easily propagated from la^^ers which, it is said, require two 
years to root. It is frequently grafted upon a root of the cucumber 
tree and seems to grow better there than on its own roots. 



UMBRELLA TREE, ELK WOOD. 

Magnolia Umbrella, Lam. 

Magnolia tripetala, L. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 48. 

Very seldom found in Pennsylvania, nor does it attain a great size 
here. Professor Sargent says that it is hardy in cultivation as far 
north as New England. The branches are very irregular, with 
leaves at the ends giving the appearance of an umbrella. Large 
w^hite flowers appear about May, making a very attractive tree. Its 
propagation is similar to that of the cucumber tree. 



TULIP-TREE, TULIP POPLAR, YELLOW POPLAR. 

Liriodendron Tulipifera, L. 

The tulJD-tree is one of the most magnificent of the forest trees 
and its wood is valuable for many purposes. It is a fairly rapid 
grower and s^s it is becoming very scarce its propagation should be 
encouraged. 



15 

The fruit lias a coue-like appearance, being made uj) of a number 
of scales, on a common axis, from which they fall during winter. 
Very few of these scales contain seeds and only about ten per cent, of 
the seeds formed are good. Loudon said that the best cones are 
found on the higher branches of aged trees. In autumn, as the seeds 
mature, the fruit turns to a brownish color. The cones should be 
«,athered in October after the first few scales have dropped. Drying 
them m an ordinary living room for a short time ought to be suffi- 
cient to free the seeds from the scales. The seeds may be sown 
broadcast, or in shallow furrows, in fall, or they may be k^t in a 
dry room until spring. Roll the beds after giving the seeds a slight 
cover. Soft mold or wood and leaf ashes are good fertilizers for 
them. In summer do not allow the beds to become too dry and give 
the 3'oung plants some protection from the sun. The plants may re- 
main in the seed beds for two years, to develop a good root system 
before being planted permanently, or if they are w^anted for orna- 
mental purposes they may be transplanted and left tw^o or more 
3'ears. After transplanting first time it is better to cut the stem off a 
couple of inches above the ground, allowing a new stem to be formed. 

Rich soil of coves and of cool slopes is its preference. It is known 
to come up in old fields after an advance growth of sassafras or 
locust, or with locust. Seedlings are plentiful in the forest near old 
trees after a winter or spring fire has burned the layer of leaves 
on the ground. It may be set out as the cucumber tree, with lo- 
cust or with walnut, or with both. Trees are said to be raised easily 
from cuttings. 



BASSWOOD, AMERICAN LINDEN, LIME TREE, LIN. 

Tilia Americana, L. 

The linden has a one-seeded fruit which when it is matured in Sep- 
tember is hard, hairy, gray and about the size of a pea. They should 
be sown at once in the seed beds, or if kept over winter, should be 
stratified with moist sand in a box which can be placed in well 
drained ground. In either case a good percentage will come up the 
first year, but if they have been kept dry over wdnter they are likely 
to wait until the second year before germinating. They are very 
slow growers from the seed and will have to remain in the nursery 
for two, three, or four years, and perhaps more, before they will be 
large enough to set out permanently. They may be then planted 
with oak, sugar maple, white ash, etc. As with other trees, if the 



16 

plants are crooked, or too branchy, cut them off just above the 
ground and allow a shoot to form. More rapid growth is obtained 
from layers, so it is customary to cut off an old tree close to the 
ground, and when a number of shoots have come up, to throw dirt 
among them that they uia\ take root for themselves. In one or two 
years the}- may be cut off and used as plants. Transplanting with 
balls of dirt is recommended. It prefers a moist situation but will 
grow on dr}^ soil. As a shade tree it is probably not surpassed. 



WHITE BASSWOOD. 

Tilia heterophylla, Vent. 

The white basswood is more of a mountain tree than the Tilia 
Americana. It is commonly found growing on the moist soil border- 
ing mountain streams, however, it will thrive upon limestone soil, or 
dr}-, gravelly and sand}^ soil, if moderately rich. The wood of this 
tree is not unlike that of the other species of basswood and is sold 
as such. It can be propagated the same as the basswood above, 
either from seed or from cuttings, the latter being, perhaps, pre- 
ferable. 



AMEEICAN HOLLY. 

Ilex opaca, Ait. 

While the holly, under favorable conditions, becomes a tree of good 
size, and is then valuable, it is not likely that, in this State at least, 
it will ever be raised for other than ornamental purposes. The fruit 
is a small red berry, maturing in autumn and remaining on the tree 
all winter. The berries may be gathered in December and at once 
macerated in water. After the seeds have been thoroughly washed, 
they should be spread on a cloth and dried, and then mixed with 
sand and kept dry until needed for sowing in spring. Sow in fur- 
rows ten to twelve inches apart. Cover seeds lightly with fine earth 
and roll it. A layer of leaves may then cover the bed which will per- 
haps hasten germination. The seeds are slow to germinate and may 
not come up until the second year. The plants should be carefully 
transplanted every two years until set out finally. It seems to prefer 
the edge of streams or swamps, under other trees, but it will grow on 
higher ground. It makes a close hedge and requires little care when 
once started. It is also propagated by cuttings. 



17 



OHIO BUCKEYE, FETID BUCKEYE. 

Aesculiis glabra, Willd. 

The wood of (liis tree is used for pulp wood aud for tlie mauu- 
fa(ture of liglit wooden articles. Although there are other rapid 
growers, the wood of which is better iu quality and may take the 
place of the buckeye, yet the facility with which it can be raised from 
seed together with its rapid growth may recommend it. 

The fruit resemblesi the common horse-chestnut but is prickly 
when young. It matures in autumn and the seeds may be gathered 
from under the old tree after the first frost. They should be planted 
at once, either where they are to remain, say two or three feet apa-rt 
each way, or they may be planted in seed beds, in rows eighteen to 
twenty-four inches apart and twelve to fourteen ijiches in the row. 
Cover a little more than the thickness of the seed, unless the beds are 
rolled. In one year the plants may be set out. They prefer moist 
soil, as along the banks of rivers, but will do well in soil that it is not 
exceedingly dry. 



SWEET BUCKEYE. 

Aesculus flava. Ait. 

Aesculus octandra. Marsh. See Britton & Brown, Yol. II, p. 401. 

The tree has a smooth fruit, has the same uses as the Ohio buckeye 
and may be propagated in the same manner: Either may be used as 
a shade tree, although the European horse-chestnut is superior and 
more frequently used for that purpose. 



SUGAR MAPLE. 

Acer saccharinum, Wang. 

Acer Saccharum, Marsh. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 398. 

In the Forestry Report for this State issued in 1895, it is stated 
that this is one of the largest and perhaps one of the commonest trees 
in the State. It is apparent therefore that conditions here are 
favorable to its growth. It is a valuable tree and will grow in al- 
most any locality. 

2 



18 

The seeds, in samaras or keys about an inch long, are matured in 
September. They may be picked from the tree, or a little later swept 
together under the tree, as they are usually very plentiful. They 
are very sensitive to being dried out and therefore should be sown 
at once. The rows should be about eight inches apart and the seeds 
six inches apart in the rows. A very light cover of earth is suffi- 
cient, but put a layer of leaves over the beds for the winter. The 
seeds may be kept over winter if stratified with sand just slightly 
moistened, then sown early in spring. During the first season the 
young plants will need shade. They may remain in the seed beds 
two years and then be set out permanently at three, four or five foot 
distances. Prune off any branches that may have formed. The 
sugar maple has been planted in pure plantations and also in mix- 
ture with white ash, walnut, oak, birch and others. It is among the 
best of the trees suitable for street planting. 

What is known as black sugar maple is a variety of Acer sacchar- 
inum and is propagated in the same manner. 

The striped maple (Acer Pennsylvanicum, L.), so called from the 
striped appearance of its bark, is of little importance except as an 
ornamental tree. Its seeds ripen in September and may be raised 
as the above. It is found in cool ravines and endures considerable 
shade. 



SILVER MAPLE, A^'HITE OR SOFT MAPLE. 

Acer dasycarpum, Ehrh. 

Acer saccharinum, L. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 397. 

This is perhaps the most rapid grower among the maples, and it 
is adapted to any soil, but it is of very little value. The keys are 
large, veiny and diverging. The seeds ripen early in summer, in May 
or June. They may be swept up under the trees and should be sown 
at once. If planted in moist beds and given a light cover of earth 
it will not be long before the young plants put in an appearance. 
Sow the seeds in rows about twelve inches apart and in distances of 
eiglit inches in the row. If started in good soil one year will be suffi- 
cient time in the nurserj^ but if in poor soil they will take two years 
to grow to a size suitable for planting. These plants are apt to 
branch young, so when planting, if they are branchy or crooked, cut 
them off just above the ground. The sprout that will be formed will 
make up for the growth that has been lost. 



19 



RED MAPLE, SAVAMP MAPLE. 

Acer rubrum, L. 

The red maple is a more valuable tree than the soft maple and as 
it thrives Id swamps (although not confined to them) which are rarely 
of any use, there is no reason why it should not be raised. The seeds 
ripen in May or June and perhaps can best be picked from the tree. 
They should be planted at once in moist soil, as with the soft maple. 
The first year they grow slowly and may have to remain in the seed 
bed two years. Pruning with tht^so, too, may be necessary. Where 
the soil is good it makes a beautiful shade tree. 



BOX ELDER, ASH-LEAVED MAPLE. 

Negundo aceroides, Moench. 

Acer Negundo, L. See Britton & Brow-n, Vol. II, p. 400. 

In wooded sections of the country this tree is of little value, but 
in the plains it serves as a splendid ''nurse tree" to other more use- 
ful species. It is a rapid grower and will thrive on any soil, hence, 
where a quick protection to the soil, or a quick shade is wanted, there 
is nothing better; for instance, for the protection of white pine seed- 
lings on a dry southern slope. It is short lived and when planted 
with other trees aft'ords an early return in the way of fire wood. The 
seeds are ripe in September and should be sown at once. In one 
year the seedlings can be planted out. With conifers, box elder 
may be planted in every other row at four foot distances, the rows be- 
ing three feet apart. With broad-leaved species every third row 
would be sufficient. 



STAGHORN SUMACH. 

Rhus typhina, L. 

Rhus hirta, (L.) Sudw. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 386. 

Mostly a shrub but at times reaches the dimensions of a small 
tree. The wood has a beautiful grain and will take a polish, making 
it suitable for panels, etc. The fruit (small, hard, strong seeds) is com- 
pacted into an irregular, brown or scarlet mass. The seeds mature 



20 

about October, after which they may be gathered and sown at once, 
or kept in a dry, cold place until spring. The sumach is found in 
thickets, both on the borders of streams and on dry hill sides; it 
seems to grow more rapidly, however, on the moist soil and usually 
produces there a stem more or less free of branches. 



LOCUST TREE, BLACK LOCUST, YELLOW LOCUST. 
Robinia Pseudacacia, L. 

The locust has many qualities that recommend it to the tree 
planter. The foliage and blossoms make it suitable for a shade tree, 
especially along country roads. It is a rapid grower and can be re- 
produced easily from seeds or from root suckers. It will grow on 
any soil that is not wet, and, like all legumiuous plants, it improves 
the soil on which it grows. Moreover the wood is strong and of 
great durability. Yellow locust wood is supposed to be more valu- 
able than white locust wood, but both come from this species. 

The fruit, a pod enclosing several seeds, is matured in September 
and may be gathered from the tree any time after that, for frequently 
they remain on the tree all winter. The seeds may be threshed out 
with a flail and cleansed by running them through a winnowing ma- 
chine. Field mice are fond of them, consequently it is best to keep 
them for spring planting, which is easily done if they are kept in a 
cool, dry atmosphere. Before planting, put them into scalding water 
and remove them as soon as they swell up. Repeat the operation 
ulnitil all are ready, tlien plant at once in the seed bed, aboiut six 
inches apart each way. The young plants may remain in the beds 
one or two years when they may be set out permanently at four foot 
distances. At first sight of the borer's work cut off the branch or 
the whole stem and burn it. If branchy when transplanted prun- 
ing will be necessary. It may be planted by itself or mixed with 
other species, as yellow poplar, catalpa, walnut, etc. 



JUDAS TREE, RED BUD. 

Cercis Canadensis, L. 

Hardly more than a shrub. Its wood is seldom if ever used. In 
spring the bush is aflame with red flowers, making it worthy of a 
place on the lawn. The fruit is a legume, or pod, ripening in autumn. 



21 

These may be gathered and kept until spring, the seeds to be sown 
earl}-. It does not seem to be particular as to soil and may be 
planted under other trees or shrubs. In growth it is fairly rapid. 



KENTUCKY COFFEE TREE, COFFEE NUT. 

Gymnocladus Canadensis, Lam. 

Gymnocladus dioica, (L.) Koch, See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 261. 

Very similar to the locust in qualities and requirements. Like all 
other broad-leaved species it reaches its best development on moist, 
rich soil. The seeds mature in October and may be taken from the 
pods readily after a severe frost, or the pods may be gathered and 
macerated in warm water. Dry the seeds and treat as locust seeds. 
The growth is rapid, so close sowing is not necessary, neither is the 
tree so apt to branch as the locust. 



HONEY-LOCUST. 

Grleditschia triacanthos, L. 

This tree as jet has very little value other than as an ornamental 
tree. It requires rich soil. The pods may be gathered in Septem- 
ber or October and macerated in water until the seeds can be washed 
clean. They can be treated then as those of the locust and coffee 
tree. The taproot should be cut off before transplanting. 



.WILD CHERRY, WILD BLACK CHERRY. 

Prunus serotina, Ehrh. 

A neglected but valuable tree. It is a fairly rapid grower, not 
particular in regard to soil, and furnishes a fine wood for the manu- 
facture of furniture. The fruit is matured in August. It can then be 
gathered from the tree and macerated in water until the stones can 
be cleaned. These may be sown at once, but it is well to preserve 
them until spring by mixing them with sand and placing the box 
either in a dry, cool cellar or in the ground where the stones can be 



22 

frozen. Tlio^' must not be allowed to^become moist. Sow in fur- 
rows six to eigiit inches apart and two or three inches in a furrow. 
Tliey will be of sufficient size in two years to be moved safely. They 
may then be mixed with seedlings of ash, elm, oak, pirie, spruce, etc., 
at four foot distances. 

Prunus Pennsylvaniaca, L. fil., or the fire cherry, is of little value 
other than as a nurse tree to better and weaker species. It may be 
used as the box elder. Propagation is the same as for the black 
cherry. The fruit is ripe in July. 



A MERICAN CRAE-A PPJ.E. 

Pyrus coronaria, L. 

Malus coronaria, (L.) Mill. See Eritton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 235. 

The tree never reaches a very great size and its wood is of little 
value except for tool handles or turnery work. As an ornamental 
tree, however, it is worth some consideration. Its flowers are numer- 
ous, fragrant and of delicate tints. The fruit matures late in fall, 
when it may be gathered and macerated in water in order to obtain 
the seeds. Several years in the nursery may be required before the 
seedlings will be large enough to be planted out with safety. Prun- 
ing may be necessary in order to avoid a straggling form. It is 
usually found in rather moist soil. 



MOUNTAIN ASH. 

Pyrus Americana, DC. 

Sorbus Americanus, Marsh. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 233. 

Of no value other than as an ornamental tree. It grows both on 
highlands and on lowlands. The berry-like fruit grows in clusters 
and matures about October. The seeds may be obtained by macera- 
tion, and after being dried on a cloth should he kept in a dry, cool 
place for spring planting. Frequent transplanting before setting 
out permanently will no doubt secure the best results for ornamental 
use. 



23 

COCKSPUR THOKN. 

Crataegus Crus-galli, L. 

Except for Ledges the cockspur thorn is little used. It is occa- 
sionally found as a lawn tree because of its white flowers, which ap- 
pear in June. The fruit matures in October. The seeds may be ob- 
tained by maceration and can be sown at once or kept for spring 
sowing. 



JUNE BERRY, SHAD BUSH, SERVICE BERRY. 

Amelanchier Cauadensis, T. & G. 

Another tree, more often a shrub, which is more ornamental than 
useful. It is among the first of our trees to bloom in spring and is 
very attractive because of its many white flowers. The fruit matures 
in June or July and is then edible. The seeds are obtained by mac- 
eration and should be sown at once. It has been found on soil vary- 
ing from dry "barrens" to the wet borders of swamps. 



GUM, SWEET-GUM, BILSTED. 

Liquidambar Styraciflua, L. 

A tree that grows to large size and furnishes a fine grained lumber 
suitable for veneer and interior finishing. The fruit, a ball with 
rough projections, matures in autumn, when the seeds drop out. 
They may he gathered in September or October and sown at once in 
the seed beds, either scattered thinly broadcast, or in furrows four to 
six inches apart. Give them a light cover of soil and as with other 
seeds sown in fall, spread leaves over the beds to protect them dur- 
ing the winter. Two years may be required to allow the seedlings 
to become of sufiicient size to transplant. They may be set in almost 
any soil, but because of their tendency to branch set the plants not 
more than three feet apart each way. It presents a beautiful ap- 
pearance in autumn and is suitable for a lawn tree. 



DOGWOOD, FLOWERING DOGWOOD, BOXWOOD. 

Cornus florida, L. 

As the name implies the tree is conspicuous for its flowers. Its 
autumn colors are just as attractive, hence as an ornamental tree 
it is well W'Orth consideration. In order to secure a straight trunk, 
and a regular shape, plant the young tree, then when it has a year to 
''root itself" fairly, cut the stem off (in spring or early summer) close 
to the ground. It will then produce several shoots. Select the one 



24 

you prefer and remove the rest. As this retained shoot grows and 
makes its branches, Iceep cutting off the lower ones until the stem 
is as high as jou desire, after which it may be trusted to care for 
itself. It rarely attains great size but the wood is valuable for tool 
handles, mallets, etc., where it will undergo hard usage. As a 
forest tree it is scarcely better than a weed, permitting no other 
species to get a start beneath its shade. The fruit is a small, red 
berry maturing in September. The berries may be picked from the 
tree and macerated until the pulp can be removed from the seeds. 
Mix these with damp sand and place in well drained ground over 
winter. Plant early in spring. During summer protect from the 
hot sun. After two years the plants may be set out, either in the 
open or under the shade of other trees. 

The alternate-leaved dogwood, having a "blue-black" berry, is of 
little value even as an ornamental tree. 



TUPELO, PEPPERIDGE, BLACK OR SOUR GUM. 

Nyssa sylvatica, Marsh. 

Black gum, in favored localities, often grows to a large size. It 
prefers damp, rich soils but will grow in dry situations. It may be 
used for landscape work. The wood is hard to split and is used 
where such characteristic is needed. The fruit ripens in Septem- 
ber and may be picked from the tree. Macerate in warm w^ater until 
the seed or stone is clean. Mix with damp sand and place in ground 
well protected from moisture. In spring sow about two inches apart 
in rows. Keep the beds moist. In two years the plants may be 
moved and should be set two to three feet apart. They are, other- 
wise, likely to branch. 



LAUREL, MOUNTAIN LAUREL, CALICO-BUSH. 

Kalmia latifolia, L. 

RHODODENDRON, ROSE-BAY, GREAT LAUREL. 

Rhododendron maximun, L. 

These two shrubs are of little value other than for ornamental 
use. They are comparatively easy to transplant from the woods. 
The young plants should be taken up in early spring with consider- 
able dirt to the roots. After transplanting pack a thick layer of 
leaves about the foot of the shrub and keep them moist until a good 
growth is evident. Propagation from seed is said to be difficult and 
expensive. For planting in open grounds it is best to secure speci- 
mens which have grown in open grounds. 



25 



PEESIMMON. 

Diospyros Virginiaua, L. 

This tree is more valuable for its fiuit than for any other purpose. 
The heartwood, which takes almost a century to form, is very dark. 
The wood's "capacity for enduring friction is phenomenal." The 
fruit is mature in autumn and may be picked from the ground under 
the trees after several frosts. Remove the pulp from the seeds, mix 
them with moist sand and preserve in a cool cellar. Sow in rows in 
spring and, as with all slow growing species especially, cultivate well. 
In two years they may be removed from the seed bed. It grows on 
light, sandy soil or in bottom land. Occasionally it is found grow- 
ing on high dry ground. In parts of the United States persimmon cul- 
ture has become quite common and several improved varieties of the 
fruit are already produced. 



WHITE ASH. 
Fraxinus Americana, L. 

A magnificent and valuable forest tree. Its wood is extensively 
used in the manufacture of furniture, wagons, farming implements 
and oars. It does not seem to be particular as to location, but if the 
wood of the more rapid growing trees is best, then moderately rich 
soil w^here the roots can get plenty of moisture is preferred, as along 
streams. The fruit is winged and matures in August or September. 
It should be sown broadcast at once in well raked beds. During 
the first summer provide shade for it and, if necessary, moisture. 
The seedlings may be removed when one year old. If the taproot 
has not been retarded it is better to cut it off than to run the risk 
of turning the growing end up when planting. It may be mixed with 
walnut, oak, maple, hickory, etc., at three or four foot distances. 

The green ash and red ash are somewhat inferior to the white 
ash in respect to their t'imber qualities. If cultivated at all, they 
may be propagated in the same manner as the white ash. 



BLACK ASH, HOOP ASH. 

Fraxinus sambucifolia. Lam. 

Fraxinus nigra. Marsh. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 002. 

The black ash, growing in wet and swampy soils, although capable 
of growing on dry soils, is used very much for hoops, basket weaving 
and interior finishing. Its seeds ripen several weeks later than those 
of the white ash but are treated in a like manner. 



2G 



CATALPA, BEAN TREE, INDIAN BEAN, CiaAR TREE. 

Catalpa bignonioides, Walt. 

Catalpa Catalpa, (L.) Karst. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 199. 

A tree to wliicli a great deal of atteution has been called of late. 
It is a rapid grower on almost any soil, producing, in a very short 
time, stems large enough for railroad ties or even telegraph or tele- 
phone poles. The fruit is a pod enclosing numerous small winged 
seeds. These pods remain on the trees during winter and may be 
gathered any time after October. Remove the seeds and keep in a 
cool, dry atmosphere until the ground can be worked in spring. Sow 
the seeds broadcast and cover with fine dirt. By the next spring 
the seedlings can be set out in rows. If by themselves, three or 
four foot squares will make proper distances for planting. They may 
be planted with locust, maple, ash, pine, etc. It has been recom- 
mended to plant them in alternate rows with field corn. This will 
afford some cultivation after the plants have been set out. White 
pine might then be set along the corn rows after one or two crops 
have been removed. If any damage comes to the young plant, cut 
it off at the ground, for as long as ttie root is healthy a sprout will 
soon come up which will probably produce a better tree than the 
seedling stems. This indeed, is the best way to secure a trunk long 
enough and straight enough for a telegraph pole. Cuttings may 
be used for propagation. The wood, whilst it resists decay in the 
ground, appears to lack strength sufficient for a good railroad tie. 



WESTERN CATALPA. 

Catalpa speciosa. Warder. 

It is said that the wood of this species is more durable in contact 
with the ground than that of the Catalpa above mentioned. As a rule 
it produces straighter stems and is freer from branches. The growth 
is rapid in almost any soil, producing a good crop of telephone poles, 
etc., in twenty-five years, or less. It can be projiagated as the above, 
either from seed, or from cuttings. Its value for railroad ties has 
been greatly overestimated. 



SASSAFRAS. 

Sassafras officinale, Nees. 

Sassafras Sassafras, (L.) Karst. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 97. 

Although a rapid grower, the tree will hardly be planted much in 
Pennsylvania because of its timber qualities. It is very frequently 



•77 



found in old fields, preparing the soil for a more valuable species 
and acting as a nurse to it. As sucli it may be used to advantage. 
The fruit matures in September. The pulp must be washed from the 
stone, which should be planted at once in rich, moist soil. Two 
years will not be too long for the seedlings to remain under nursery 
care. After they have had a start in the plantation, yellow poplar, 
sugar maple, wliite pine and perhaps hemlock might be mixed with it 
in alternate rows. It sprouts readily and may be raised from 
suckers or from bits of root. 



SLIPPERY ELM, RED ELM, MOOSE ELM. 

Ulmus fulva, Michx. 

A tree which is suitable to plant in wet locations, although it is 
sometimes found on the hillsides. By some the wood is said to be 
superior to that of the white elm. The fruit is mature in June. It 
may be gathered from under the tree and sown at once in the nursery 
beds. If they are dry, moisture should be applied to the beds artifi- 
cially. Give protection during summer from the sun. If the moisture 
has been sufficient, the plants may be set out that fall, but it may be 
best to allow them to remain for another year. Fall transplanting is 
preferred. It may be mixed with beech, oak, ash, or sugar maple. 



WHITE ELM, WATER ELM, AMERICAN ELM. 

Ulmus Americana, L. 

The white elm rivals the sugar maple in size. Its wood is very 
hard to split and is used where such resistance is necessary. It, too 
prefers moist, rich soil, but will grow in other situations. The fruit 
is mature in June and should be treated as that of the slippery elm. 
It may be mixed with birch, beech or maple. 



HACKBERRY, SUGAR BERRY. 

Celtis occidentalis, L. 

Although this tree reaches a fair size, its wood is of no practical 
importance. The fruit is a small drupe, maturing in autumn. The 



28 

seeds may be obtained by niaeeration and should be sown in moder- 
ately moist beds at once. Two years are often required for the seeds 
to germinate. The young seedlings should have some protection 
from the sun for several seasons and their roots kept moist. They 
may be propagated by cuttings. 



OSAGE ORANGE, BOW WOOD, BOIS d' ARC. 

Madura aurantiaca, Nutt. 

Toxylon pomiferum, Raf. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 529. 

Another valuable but neglected tree. It is a rapid grower and 
not particular in choice of soil. Its wood has been found to be very 
valuable in the manufacture of wagon wheels, and has also been used 
with good success as railroad ties. The fruit matures in October but 
as it is frequently seedless, and as the tree is readily propagated from 
cuttings, it may be cheapest to use the latter method. If seeds are 
obtained after macerating the fruit, they should be kept in a cool, dry 
atmosphere and sown in spring. The tree is frequently used for 
hedges, when it needs considerable pruning. In plantations it 
should be planted closely. It is not a native of Pennsylvania, but 
is introduced from the southwest. 



RED MULBERRY. 

Morus rubra, L. 

The fruit, resembling an elongated blackberry, is mature in July. 
It should be picked from the tree and macerated in water, the seeds 
cleaned and then kept in a cool, dry atmosphere until spring. Sow 
thinly over the beds and cover with fine dirt. Keep the beds moist 
and protect the young plants from the sun. After two seasons 
growth they can safely be placed in the plantation. They endure 
some shade so may be set among other trees. It prefers low, rich 
soils. 



BUTTONWOOD, SYCAMORE. 

Platanus occidentalis, L. 

A rapid grower, often reaching a very large size, and not particular 
as to location. The wood, however, is of very little value, except in 



29 

the manufacture of tobacco boxes. The common ''button balls" are 
made up of a number of seeds which mature about October. Sow 
them as soon as ripe, and cover lightly, or keep them dry over winter 
and plant early in spring. The seedlings may be planted when one 
year old. 



BLACK WALNUT. 
Juglans nigra, L. 

A tree valuable both for its wood and its fruit. That it is almost 
exterminated in Pennsylvania is well known and yet it is a fairly 
rapid grower and readily propagated from seed. The nuts mature in 
fall and after a slight frost may be picked up from under the old trees 
in quantities. Where there is no serious danger from mice and 
squirrels the nuts may be planted at once (after slightly bruising the 
hull) in rows about a foot apart, and from four to six inches apart in 
the row, for they branch early. To prevent the taproot from becom- 
ing too long a close layer of stone may be laid before the nursery beds 
are formed, or the plants may be started in boxes about six inches 
deep, having holes in the bottom and sides to allow proper drainage. 
Transplant when one year old. To keep the nuts over winter, re- 
move the "hull" and mix them wdth moist sand and bury in the 
ground. Plant as soon as taken up in the spring. If desired, the 
nuts can be planted at once where the tree is intended to remain. 
Locust, maple, beech, or catalpa could be mixed with it in the plan- 
tation. It might be raised with field corn. 

The white walnut or butternut, having an oblong, pointed nut, may 
be raised in the same manner. It will grow on both high and low 
ground, whereas the black walnut rarely does well in a dry situation. 



SHELL-BARK, SHAG BARK HICKORY. 

Carya alba, Natt. 

Hicoria ovata, (Mill.) Britton. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 485. 

There are said to be nine species of hickory on the continent, but 
there are only three that are of any importance to us. The shag- 
bark, so called from the appearance of its bark, prefers rich, damp 
soil and in such is a rapid grower. The fruit matures in October 
and may then be gathered from under the trees. They should be 
placed in moist sand and kept for spring planting. Because of the 



30 

taproot it may be best to plant at once permanently, and if possible 
raise some field crop with the young plants. Make furrows about 
three feet apart and drop the nuts about every half-foot. Weeds 
will have to be kept down. If raised in a nursery, care will have to 
be taken in transplanting, because of the long taproot. Cut off any 
bruised or broken roots. 



WHITE-HEART HICKORY, HICKORY, KING NUT, MOCKER 

NUT. 

Carya tomentosa, Nutt. 

Hicoria alba, (L.) Britton. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 486. 

The young shoots of this tree are hairy; the nut angular and 
pointed. It may be found more frequently and is perhaps the best of 
the family from the standpoint of forestry because of its choosing the 
poorer soils, although its slow growth is against it. It is raised as 
the shag-bark hickory. 



PIG NUT, BROOM HICKORY, SWITCH BUD HICKORY. 

Carya porciua, Nutt. 

Hicoria glabra, (Mill.) Britton. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 487. 

The bark is furrowed on older trees; the fruit is thin shelled. The 
wood rivals that of the shag-bark, said by some even to surpass it. 
It will grow both in high and low situations, but in Pennsylvania at 
least it prefers moist soil. It is also treated as the shag-bark 
hickory. 



BIRCHES. 

Betula, L. 

Of the five birches commonly found in this State all are more or 
less valuable or worthy of cultivation. The fruit of the red or river 
birch and of the canoe birch matures in summer, about June. The 
small seeds should be removed from the cone-like fruit and sown 
broadcast at once in moist beds. Of course the plants must be 



31 

shaded, at least during the first season's growth. They had better 
remain in the seed beds for two j^ears. The fruit of the three other 
birches, black, yellow and white, matures in fall. Their seeds should 
be kept in damp sand until spring. Sow as earl}' as possible and 
keej) the beds moist during the summer, also shade the plants. In 
one year these may be removed. Most of the birches will grow on 
poor soil and may be used as nurse trees for more valuable broad- 
leaved species. Conifers suffer from having their tender shoots 
whipped off in a strong wind by the action of the slender stems of 
these trees and consequently should not be planted with them. 



SMOOTH ALDER. 

Alnus serrulata, Willd. 

Alnus rugosa, (Du Roi) K. Koch. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, 

p. 512. 
Seldom if ever more than a shrub, but of value, especially for hold- 
ing soil on banks of streams. The seeds should be picked in Octo- 
ber and sown broadcast at once on fresh, sandy soil and covered 
lightly. Roll the beds and give a covering of leaves for the winter. 
The seeds are frequently sown upon the snow. If seeds are pre- 
served until spring, when they must be sown very early, keep them in 
damp sand and in a cold place. Shade the beds during the summer. 



IRON WOOD, HOP-HORNBEAM. 

Ostrya Virginica, Willd. 
A slow growing tree of the poorer soils. It is usually found in the 
shade of oaks, maples and the larger trees. The fruit resembles 
the hop. It matures in September. The nut-like seeds should be 
sown at once and even then may not sprout until the year following. 
It may be used to plant up blanks, or open places on rocky slopes. 



WATER BEECH, HORN BEAM. 
Carpinus Caroliniana, Walt. 
Usually nothing more than a shrub, thongh sometimes becoming 
a tree 25 feet high and a foot in diameter, growing along streams in 
rich soil. The wood, similar to that of iron wood, is used for levers 
and turnery work. The fruit matures in autumn and the nut-like 
seeds should be sown at once in moist, sandy soil. Usually they will 
not come up until the second year. 



32 



OAKS. 
Quercus, L. 

Tlie oaks may be divided into two general classes, namely the white 
and the black oaks. The white oaks are those having leaves with 
round lobes, not being bristle-pointed. The acorns ripen in one year 
and are sweet to the taste. Tlie black oaks are those the leaves of 
which have bristle-pointed lobes. The acorns mature in the second 
3'ear and are bitter to the taste. 

Of the first class there are in Pennsylvania, worthy of being cul- 
tivated, the following: 

White Oak. Quercus alba, L. 

Post Oak. Quercus stellata, Wang. Quercus minor, (Marsh.) 
Sarg. See Biitton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 520. 

Bur Oak. Quercjas macrocarpa, Michx. 

Swamp White Oak. Quercus bicolor, Willd. Quercus plata- 
noides, (Lam.) Sudw. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 521. 

Chestnut Oak. Quercus Prinus, L. 

Yellow Oak. Quercus Muhlenbergii, Engelm. Quercus acumi- 
nata. (Michx.) Sarg. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 522. 

Those of the black oaks are: 

Red Oak. Quercus rubra, L. 

Scarlet Oak. Quercus coccinea, Wang. 

Black Oak. Quercus tinctoria, Bartram. Quercus velutina, Lam. 

See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 517. 
Pin Oak. Quercus palustris, Du Roi. 
Spanish Oak. Quercus falcata, Michx. Quercus digitata, (Marsh.) 

Sudw. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 518. 

All of the oaks will grow on poor soil, but since rapid growth of 
oak produces better wood the better part of soil allotted to forest 
should be given to them. The acorns mature in fall and may easily 
be gathered from under the old trees. Those of the black oak class 
may be sown at once, because of their bulkiness for keeping and be- 
cause there is no danger from rodents. Those of the white oaks, 
while they lose their power of germination verj' soon, but because 
of the danger from rodents, should be kept until spring in damp sand 
and in a cool room, or buried with sand in a well drained place. The 
plants have long taproots and some suggest that the acorns be sown 
at once in the plantation where the seedlings are to remain. If so 
done, plough shallow furrows every three feet apart and drop the 
acorns at a distance of every two or three inches in the furrow. For 



33 

several years the seedlings may be cultivated as convenient. Jf sown 
in beds scatter from three to four hundred acorns on a bed four 
feet each way. In one year the plants may be removed and s(!t one 
foot apart in rows three feet from each other. 



CHESTNUT. 

Castanea saliva, Mill., var. Americana, Watts. & Coult. 

Castanea dentata, (Marsh.) Borkh. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, 

p. 515. 

In the Forestry Report issued by this State in 1895 the following 
reasons are given for the cultivation of chestnut: 

'^1. It will grow on almost any kind of soil, from a river flat to a 
mountain top, although it is not at its best on limestone soils. 

"2. It grows with great rapidity. 

"3. When cut it reproduces a valuable coppice growth in a few 
years. 

"■L, Its product, wood and fruit, will always be in demand. 

''5. There will be an increasing demand for it in the future be- 
cause of the tannin which it contains." 

The fruit matures in October, being released from the burs by the 
first frost. The chestnuts may be sown at once, which is preferable, 
or they may be mixed in moist sand and buried until spring. Have 
the soil well prepared. Some sand mixed in the beds will be good. 
Shade the seedlings during summer. Set out as the oaks, in rows 
three feet apart and at a distance of one foot from each other in the 
row. Alternate rows may be set with white pine, or in order to 
afford cultivation corn might be planted in alternate rows. 



BEECH. 

Fagus ferruginea, Ait. 

Fagus Americana, Sweet. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 514. 

The beech is a tree which should be planted in soil where its roots 
can get plenty of moisture. The fruit is mature in October and may 
be gathered from under the old trees. Sow in furrows six inches 
3 



34 

apart, the seeds touching each other in the furrows. Shade well. If 
possible sow the seeds broadcast within an open i>ine woods, after 
having raked off the needles. Cover the seeds lightly. The plants 
may be set out at from two to five years old. It endures shade and 
may be set under oak, pine, etc. 



WILLOWS. 

Salix, L. 

All of the willows are so easily propagated from cuttings that it 
is not necessary to waste time by trying to raise them from seed. 
Last year's shoots can be cut and buried over winter. In spring take 
an iron bar and make a hole large enough for the cutting to go in. 
Leave one bud above ground and pack the soil firmly about the re- 
maining part of the cutting. 



ASPEN, QUAKING ASP. 

Populus tremuloides, Michx. 

The poplars are rapid growers. They are found usually along 
banks of streams, but also on higher ground. In the west the aspen 
is found coming up on land that has been cleared of other trees, either 
by "slashings" or by fires. There it prepares the soil for better 
species, as for instance white pine, and it protects the young plants. 
The fruit ripens in May or June. The seed is small and ''cottony." 
It should be sown at once in a cool situation and covered lightly. 
When one or two years old set out in a plantation, as close as con- 
venient. It may branch when young but permits j)runing. It may 
be raised easily from cuttings. 



COTTONWOOD, CAKOLINA POPLAR. 

Populus monilifera, Ait. 

Populus deltoides, Marsh. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 49,3. 

A tree whose wood is being extensively used for paper pulp. It 
is a rapid grower and adapts itself easily to almost any soil. The 
most vigorous growth, however, is found on rather moist soil. Thirty 



35 

cords of pulp wood to the acre, under average circumstances, niiglit 
be expected after fifteen or twenty-five years. The tree is freijuently 
found here as a shade tree. The seeds mature in July and should be 
sown at once. The seed beds should be kept moist. By the next fall 
seedlings could be set out in the plantation at four or five foot dis- 
tances from each other. It will make a good nurse tree for white 
pine, if mixed with it. The quickest and cheapest method of propa- 
gation is from cuttings. 



WHITE PINE. 

Pinus Strobus, L. 

It is not necessary to slate the uses of this tree nor should it be 
necessary to state that it ought to be cultivated extensively. It is a 
rapid grower and prefers poor soil, yields early returns and is very 
valuable when mature — what more is wanted? The seeds mature 
in fall of second year and as soon as the cones become pitchy (in 
August or September) pick them and keep in ordinary living room 
or some other dry place during winter in bags or on a slat frame, 
having something to catch the seeds as they fall from the cones. 
Seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit is suificient heat to open the cones 
that the seeds may drop out. Sow broadcast early in spring. Cover 
lightly and roll the beds. They must be protected from the sun in 
summer. If the beds become very wet sprinkle dry sand over them 
as soon as possible. "Damping off" is said to be prevented in this 
way. If one year old plants are not used in the plantation they had 
better be transplanted to nursery rows, the rows six inches ai)art 
and plants about two inches aj^art in the rows. During the winter 
cover with leaves and transplant in spring. Two year old plants 
may be used safely. If possible have some nurse tree two or three 
years in advance of the pine, or a rapid grower, set in alternate rows, 
or two rows of pine to one of the other. Three feet in the row is 
sufficient. It is worthy of a place as an ornamental tree. 



PITCH PINE, YELLOW PINE, JACK PINE. 

Pinus rigida. Miller. 

This pine has needles in threes. The cones take two or three 
years to mature. They should be gathered and treated as white 



36 

pine. With all pines the seeds must be kept dry during the winter. 
The oil in them will preserve them so there is very little danger of 
their losing the power of germination for several years if they are not 
exposed to moisture. Sow the seeds broadcast in sandy beds in 
spring. Seedlings can be set out in spring when two years old. 
They are very sensitive to being transplanted so their roots should 
be carefully protected. It grows where the soil is extremely poor, 
but slowly. 



SPRUCE PINE, YELLOW PINE. 

Pinus mitis, Michx. 
Pinus echinata, Mill. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 52. 

Leaves usually in pairs. The cones are somewhat longer than 
those of the pitch pine but not so large in diameter, proportionally, 
They mature in one season. Formerly there was considerable yel- 
low pine in this State but it has become very scarce. The tree 
reaches a large size and its wood is valuable. It is not hard to raise 
from seeds, which should be treated as those of the other pines. It 
is a fairly rapid grower and is adapted to dry, sandy soil and to poor 
slopes. 

The red or Norway pine (Pinus resiuosa) may be propagated as 
easily from seed as the other pines. 



RED SPRUCE. 

Picea nigra, var. rubra, Engelm. 

Picea rubra, (Lamb.) Link. See Britton «& Brown, Vol. I, p. 55. 

A tree of the highest ridges and cool northern slopes. The cones 
are small and unusually plentiful. They may be gathered any time 
after October. By heating the cones some, the seeds will readily 
fall from the scales. They should be sown in early spring in soil 
somewhat sandy. Cover the seeds lightly and roll the beds. Shade 
the seedlings well and do not let the beds become too dry. The 
plants may be put in the plantation when two years old or they may 
be transplanted to nursery rows and set out when four years old. 
They have shallow roots and may be used on rocky slopes. In regu- 
lar plantations three feet is the proper distance at which the plants 
should stand from each other. 



BLACK SPRUCE. 

Picea nigra, Link. 

Picea mariana, (Mill.) B. S. P. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 55. 

Somewhat smaller than the red spruce. It prefers ''sphagnum- 
covered swamps." Propagation is same as for the red spruce. 



HEMLOCK, HEMLOCK-SPRUCE. 

Tsuga Canadensis, Carr. 

The cones of the hemlock mature in one year. They are small and 
egg-shaped, drooping from little foot stalks when ripe. Gather in 
October. After the seeds have been removed from the cones, keep 
them in a dry, cool room until spring. Sow broadcast in well pre- 
pared beds. Rotten wood mixed with the soil will no doubt insure 
better success. Moisture and shade are necessary for the young 
plants. In two years they may be set out finally or transplanted 
and set out when four years old. While the tree is found in moist 
and cool places it seems to do well in other situations. The hemlock 
is, when young, perhaps the slowest grower of all our forest treed and 
will be the hardest to perpetuate as a forest tree. 



BALSAM FIR, BALM OF GILEAD FIR. 

Abies balsamea. Miller. 

Frequently found in the northern and colder parts of the State. 
It makes a fairly rapid growth in well drained soil and can be used 
for planting along roads or walks. The cones may be gathered in 
autumn and dried slightly. The scales of the cones will have to be 
separated from the seeds. They can then be treated as those of the 
black spruce. 



LARCH, TAMARACK, HACKMATACK. 

Larix Americana, Michx. 

Larix laricina, (Du Roi) Koch. See Britton & Brown. Vol. I. p. 54. 

The tamarack is a northern tree and is found only in the cooler 
parts of the State. Wliile it may bo grown on dry soil it prefers and 



38 

is usually found in cool swamps. It is a valuable tree and is said to 
be raised easily from seeds. The small cones mature in September 
and may then be gathered from the trees. Drying the cones will re- 
lease the seeds which may be kept in a cool dry place until spring. 
Sow thinly over the beds and press the seeds into the ground, giving 
them a slight cover. Protect well during summer. The next fall 
they may be easily planted out at about five foot distances. Their 
growth is fairly rapid. 



ARBOR VITAE. 

Thuya occidentalis, L, 

A tree that is of more value perhaps as an ornament than as a 
tree for forestry purposes, in this State. The stems are used for 
poles and posts. The cones mature in September or October. It is 
grown easily from seeds if treated as the other conifers. Two years 
in the nursery beds is sufficient for the young plants. They may then 
be placed in the plantation. It occurs naturally, but sparingly in 
this State. 



CEDAR, RED CEDAR, SAVIN. 

Juniperus Virginiana, L. 

Very common throughout the State, but never reaching a very 
large size. It is a slow grower. The fruit is a berry made up of sev- 
eral fleshy scales enclosing two or three seeds. The berries may be 
gathered in November. They should be macerated in warm water 
or put in strong lye made from wood ashes for several days until the 
seeds can be washed clean. Keep the seeds dry and cool and sow 
early in spring. Cover the beds with leaves as it is likely that the 
plants will not come up until the next year. They may be set out 
after two years, or transplanted when four or five years old. Set 
at three feet from each other. This tree is very valuable for fence 
posts. 



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